Windlass controls

Intro

Our boat came from the previous owner with an Ideal CWM horizontal windlass with a single foot switch for bringing the anchor up.

The windlass has the ability to spool out as well as in, so I wanted to convert it for up/down, and I wanted to add both wired and wireless controls for both directions.

I figured that I would only use the existing foot switch as a last resort, so I would keep what I had for that, and not bother installing a second foot switch for the out direction.

Controls

But at $215, I figured I could do it much cheaper. So I looked around for off-road winch controls and found these for much less:

Solenoids and power

Since there was already a solenoid for the up direction, I just needed add one for the down direction. I used one of these (same as what was already there for up)

I installed the second solenoid next to the original one, up high in the aft end of the starboard side of the anchor locker. It is up under the edge where it is reasonably protected, and the solenoid is sealed, so it should be fine there.

Next I connected a small ground wire from the signal input ground on the old solenoid to the same ground on the new one. Since this is on the signal side only, it has very small current.

Then I connected a heavy battery cable from the input on the load side of the first solenoid to the input of the second so they would both receive battery power in parallel. I ran the second solenoid load output to the second input terminal on the windlass, using heavy battery cable.

At this point, any low current 12V connection to the signal side of either solenoid would turn the windlass. The old solenoid would spool it in, and the new one would spool it out.

Be sure you remove the chain/line from the windlass before testing.

Wireless control

I mounted the control box for the wireless remoteup near the solenoids where it would be somewhat protected.

At this point I just had to connect the power and ground, and the two outputs to the solenoids.

Test the controller in both directions and swap the two wires to the solenoids if the directions are backwards.

Wired control

I also wanted to have a pistol grip style control that I could use if the wireless was not working. I mounted the receptacle under the lip on the port side of the anchor locker, and wired it to power and the two solenoid signal inputs.

Again test and verify direction of rotation is correct, and swap signal wires if needed.

Use

I keep the wireless and wired controls in the small drawer just forward of the port settee, which happens to be right next to where my windlass breaker is located. When I turn on the breaker, I grab whichever control I plan to use at the same time.

If using the wireless remote, you must flip the switch on the side of the remote to turn it on. Remember to turn it off when you are done, or it will run down its battery. Carry spares.

The range is quite good, and it works from anywhere on the boat.

To use the wired remote, plug it into the receptacle, and you are good to go.

Issues

My first remote did not work in one direction and I had to replace it. This was easy to do via Amazon, but it took me a while to figure out that the problem was the remote. In retrospect, I should have tested via the wired controller or with a hot wire sooner, but I suspected the winch instead, so I spent a lot of time with other debugging first.

Also, I have heard tales of the wireless sticking in the on position. When I flip the breaker, I immediately listen for the windlass. So far no issues, but if I were to hear the windlass I would immediately shut off the breaker and debug.

Instalation photo

Follow up

Several changes since the initial install:

• The wired controller plug corroded pretty quickly, and I never really used it, so I removed it.
• The connectors on the solenoids corroded from exposure to the saltwater environment of the anchor locker. I thought it would be OK there up high in the locker, since that is where the original solenoid was. But I decided to play it safe and replace the solenoids and move them inside the V-berth so they are better protected from the elements.
• While moving everything inside, I also bought a new wireless controller that has a better lanyard attachment and is easier to hold and work the buttons.